More recently I’ve finished the water system and added the Truma water heater.  This works on mains and Gas and can heat water to 70degC.  The unit is fitted inside the van in the cupboard under the sink.  This takes up valuable space so I had to make sure I’m using all other space economically. 

That being the case Ive fitted draws all over the place.  There are three big draws under the bed, one down the side of the bed and I’ve replaced the draws in the main unit to get move space.  All the draw boxes have been made in oak veneered ply and all the corners have been box jointed which give a surprisingly strong box. 

I finally managed to find a set of Alloys that I liked,  they’re 16” Phaeton wheels.  I passed up a set a year or two ago and wished I hadn’t.  After asking around for ages a set finally found my on the t4 forum. 

Latest jobs include need to fit a front and back to the bed draw units, and all the plastic vents in the side of the van are going to be refinished.  Id had them painted black a while ago as I could only buy them in white.  Unfortunately the quality of the painting is not really up to much and I found a guy that has an interesting technique for finishing things.  He works on everything from Radio controlled car bodies to motor bikes helmets, Alloy Wheels and all sorts.  He’s shown me a few things he;s done in a Carbon Fibre look finish and It looks amazing.  If they turn out good I might look at getting the mirrors sorted.   Will up date one its all done.

1.6 CS Bits Removed

Removed the old CS engine with no real problems, if you take enough bolts out it will fall out and as its scrap it doesn’t matter. We took loads of bits off it first to make it as light as possible.

With the old CS engine and the new 1Y engine both lined up in the back garden we set about removing all the bits we needed from the CS and discarding all the bits we didn’t need from the 1Y.  The CS was very oily and dirty so everything needed a good clean as it came off. Also there were a few bolts that were rounded which took a bit to sort but other than that no major problem.   Oh and the bolts holding the back of the clutch to the end of the crank in the 1Y engine didn’t want to come out, so I borrowed an impact gun which made light work of the job.    We removed pulleys from the CS and fitted them to the 1Y we found the water pump on the 1Y was slightly different so the pulleys didn’t fit.  We ended up swapping the whole water pump.  Also the pulleys fowled on the bottom part of the cam belt cover so we had to remove it.

We swapped the sump and oil pump over from CS to 1Y.  The 1Y sump didn’t seem to want to come off, but after a quick question on the brick yard forum we realised there is a baffle type sump gasket on the 1Y.  Once the gasket was prised off the sump it came away easily and the baffle came off once the oil pump had been removed.

The engine mounts were swapped with no problems at all.  The oil cooler had to be rotated 90 degreas for the water pipes to fit.  The coolant pipe

1.9 1Y before we started

flanges on the 1Y are different.  The CS and 1Y both had flanges on the side and back of the head.  The CS had a temperature sensor in both.  1 for the glow plug relay and 1 for the temperature gauge.  The 1Y has only one sensor.  With this in mind I swapped the flanges over but latter realised that it’s a multi function senor, and does both jobs so would had been ok without changing.  Having said that I found a post on one of the forums, someone was saying they used this sensor and there gauge was reading out, but I’m lead to believe this can be adjusted in the dash binnacle.

The flywheel and Clutch were swapped over and a spigot bearing was fitted into the end of the 1Ys crack shaft.  I borrowed a clutch alignment tool to get the clutch plate lined up.  It seems that a lot of these jobs are so much easier if you use the correct tools.  Also when taking parts off put the bolt in separate envelopes and label everything so you know what bolts go where.  When you take things apart they might be apart a lot longer than you at first expect, and if you’re anything like me, once I sleep I forget so much.

The engine didn’t come with an alternator so we swapped the alternator and alternator mount from the CS engine.  No problems there. We may end up changing the alternator latter, which will mean we can refit the bottom cam belt cover and use the original water pump and pulleys along with a single ribbed belt instead of the two V belts.

The dipstick tube was in so tight I ended up leaving it in there and I’m planning on cutting the pipe down and joining the CS pipe on with a collar.  Also the CS dipstick tube it thinner than the 1Y tube, so if you do get the 1Y tube out the CS tube wont fit in without modification.

Getting the engine back in was an interesting task.  We jacked the back of the van up and sat it on ramps.  We wheeled the engine out to the van on a wheeled trolley that I had and found the engine on the trolley was just too high to fit under the back.  Luckily though we managed to jack the van up enough to get the engine under, before lowering it back to the ground.  This meant there wasn’t as much height to lift the engine into place.  We didn’t have an engine lift so used a big bit of wood over the engine bay to support ratchet straps that were round the engine mounts.  This worked of but was a bit fiddly. The engine and gearbox lined up but
the last inch or so just didn’t want to go.  In the end we but the van in gear a rocked the gearbox round and it went.  In hindsight we

1.9d 1Y Ready to fit

could have just used a ratchet on the end of the crank and it would have done the same job.  Anyway the engines in now and it just needs everything hooking up.  We’re planning on fitting the CS exhaust and inlet/ air box at least in the short-term with the possibility of changing them latter for the 1Y ones.  I’ve seen a Golf inlet air box and pipes in a scrap yard today which maybe just what’s needed to use the inlet manifold.  The exhaust manifold would need a custom down pipe making.

Been looking in to the wiring situation and found a 1Y wiring diagram so I can keep the plug on the back of the engine and wire the 1Y loom into the T25 junction box.  Also looking into all the wires and connections on the Bosch fuel pump.

Check out the gallery to see all the photos.

Well it seems that most people in this situation change the 1.6d CS engine for one of the many 1.9d and Tds that are in just about all the VW cars and vans. After two 1.6TD engines slipping though our fingers we fell lucky and found a 1.9D 1Y engine from a VW caddy for £150.

All we have to do now it get it swapped out. Simple ha.

The tank fill is mounted under the bonnet so i didn’t need to cut a hole in the van side.  I though it would be a bit of a nightmare getting the 40mm pipe from the tank to the engine bay but it was surprisingly easy.

I still need to fit the water heater but it least ive made a start.

Anyway I run all the wires in behind the dash to a 24 hour time and I took the fuel line direct from the fuel tank. Power was taken direct from the battery, though a fuse obviously but with as direct a route as possible and as few connections as possible it stands a good chance of being reliable and not struggling with volt drops.

Just tested the unit today and after just a few minutes on full power the temperature in the van was up to 17 degrees and the unit shut down to min power.  Perfect….    Manuals, drawings and other info on the download page.

The fabric came form a shop in stoke called the bankrupt shop.  http://thebankruptshop.com/ I got all the material for £20 including the lining.

I used an Air powered nibbler to cut the panel out, which wasn’t as good as it sounds. It took the whole day to get the hang of using it and although I did have a good compressor it wasn’t really big enough. I think air tools need a massive amount of air.. On one side I tried cutting the rounded corners with some fancy punches that made a fantastic job but they weren’t really big enough. I ended up drilling the other side with a hole saw.

In the end the cut edge will be hidden by the glass so as long you don’t cut to much away it will be fine. I bonded the inner and outer panels together and held then together with a load of wooden pegs that I made up. I used my circular saw to put a slit in the end of the bits of wood which was the perfect size to hold the two panels in place. Once both panels were bonded I stopped work for the day. I figured it would be best to leave the bond to go off over night.

 
DAY 2.
Well the panels didn’t come unstuck as soon as I removed all the pegs so that’s a good start. I cleaned off all the excess mastic and degreased the metal work. I bought some mastic called Master Bond off eBay, It was one of only a few mastics I could find that says its for windows. It came with the primers and instructions to make a good job.

I fitted the rubber seals and cleaned and primed the glass indoors. Once the glass was ready I applied the mastic to the panel. The instructions said to apply the mastic to glass or metal. The kit came with a pre-cut nozzle so you get a tall triangle of mastic all the way round the opening.

The Glass was carefully lifted into position and pressed firmly onto the mastic. To keep a little pressure on the glass I used some large straps round the van with a few blocks of wood. The Master Bond says its ready to go in 1 Hour which, it probably is but I left it 48 hours before driving the van anywhere other that out of the garage.

Costs:-
Windows £45 each from VW (VW Part no. 703845301T and 703845301AB)
Rubber seal £15 each from VW (VW Part no. 723845121B)
Master Bond £10.99 plus postage each I used one and a half to do both windows.
Master Seal £5.99 plus Postage each. I used this to hold the inner and outer panels together. One tube did both windows.
Clamps/Pegs were home made from scraps of wood I had, so no coast. (PS Drawing of Pegs in Download section)

Total cost £150 for both windows fitted.

Tools used:-
Drill, and sharp drill bits.
Air powered Nibbler and compressor.
File
Hammer or Mallet
Stanley knife with sharp blades
Sealant Gun
Straps
Few bits of wood are very useful
Straps

After The vanfest weekend I have decided that I need to replace the halogen lights for LED’s.  6 20W lights is over doing it a little.  My mate said he felt like he was sitting under an interrogation lamp.